Civitavecchia: Rome cruise port guide – what to see, do & eat

Words by Nick Dalton

Civitavecchia is the port of Rome, albeit 70km north of the city, about an hour by road, depending on traffic. But Civitavecchia, a major Roman hub, is a charming town in its own right, lovely for a quiet day out.

The Rome cruise port [below] dates back to the 2nd century, and while cruise ships line up along the long quayside on a tongue away from the land, the surrounds have a historic charm thanks to the Roman Dock and Fortezzo Michelangelo.

Shuttles are available to get you to Civitavecchia cruise port itself but within a 15-minute stroll from the ship, along a waterfront footpath passing the fort, are the narrow streets of the old town and the grand old National Archaeological Museum while the beach is only a few minutes more.

How do I get to Civitavecchia Port?

The journey from Rome airport to Civitavecchia port is easy enough – just remember that while it’s the Port of Civitavecchia, they call it Roma Cruise Terminal, which is at the entrance to the port. If you’re taking public transport, trains from Rome Fiumicino airport take roughly between 90 minutes and two hours.

The airport has its own train station from where you take a short journey towards the city, changing at Roma Ostiense or Roma Trastevere station; while close together at the south of the city they’re on different lines and the former can be quicker, with a more regular train service. Civitavecchia Italy port is about 1km from the station, close to the beach, easy enough with a wheeled suitcase, or a bus if you’re carrying lots of luggage.

The journey time also makes it easy to travel from Civitavecchia port to Rome for the day independently – although make sure to leave plenty of time for the return. Ostiense is a pleasing stroll from the Colosseum and Forum, as is Roma Termini but both are 5km from the Vatican, although it’s an interesting walk. From around £10 return. Check with your cruise lines for shuttle bus options into town, too.

There are also buses from Rome airport to Civitavecchia port that take about 90 minutes. Taxis advertise prices from €150 for four.

– READ MORE: 12 must-see sights on your first cruise to Italy –

How do you spend a day in Civitavecchia?

Chilling by the seaside, and more. At the Civitavecchia cruise ship port itself, Fortezzo Michelangelo, a mighty fortification [below right] with an octangular tower and walls linking four circular towers, is a 16th-century construction on Roman ruins. It’s never been confirmed that Michelangelo was involved (it was originally Fort Giulia, named after Pope Julius II, who commissioned it) but it’s confirmed that Leonardo Da Vinci was involved in the design of fort and port Civitavecchia.

The fort is now HQ of the harbour master but there’s a waterfront stroll around it while nearby is Piazza della Vita, a newly developed stone expanse, a seafront space with greenery and palm trees, statues and modern art, play areas and cafes. The Historic Port of Civitavecchia Route, a one- to two-hour walk, takes in sights such as Vanvitelli Fountain – the head of an aged faun – and Porta Livorno, a massive stone passage connecting port and city.

Marina di Civitavecchia is the name given to a much revitalised 1.6km coastal stretch from the fort south, narrow, sandy, pebbly beaches backed by a curving promenade. It’s a place to laze and swim. Walk along the modern pier to the Pirgo, the stone terrace that was part of a Roman-era beach resort with heated seawater. The place for the very best sunset. The road along the beaches is lined with bars and cafes and the walk continues with parks and strips of beach.

Civitavecchia centres on Piazza Leandra, the oldest square, from where the medieval ‘ghetto’ takes in. The Piazza’s medieval fountain has been brought back to life and narrow, colourful, cobbled streets are alive with bars and restaurants. The daily San Lorenzo Market is always busy and the fish market is a sight to behold. The National Archaeological Museum, an 18th-century building commissioned by Pope Clement XIII, has three floors of treasures from the earliest days of mankind to the Middle Ages, including plenty of statues.

Hidden delights

Church of Death – actually the 16th-century Church of Saint Mary of the Prayer, the city’s oldest church. The nickname comes from its devotion to bodies found in the sea or outside the city walls. Beautiful baroque dome and the cathedral-sized interior is filled with grand historic art and statuary.

– READ MORE: Insider’s guide to Rome, the Eternal City –

Farther afield from Rome cruise port

Frasca, 9km north, is a stretch of coast eaten away by the sea until it is all strangely shaped rocks, a curving beach and lots of small creeks and bays. The seabed’s rocky, too, and loved by snorkellers for the fish and shellfish in the clear waters. And the sea is backed by an eerie, fairytale pine forest, flat tops rather than the pointy ones, creating a roof of greenery above a world of bare, gnarled trunks rising from flat, red earth.

Frasca is a National Monument with Roman fish ponds, remains of the ancient harbour of Columna and the 17th-century Torre Valdaliga viewing tower. Accessible by car or cruise excursion.

Ficoncella Thermal Baths – in the hills 4km from Civitavecchia. The petite Roman complex features five outdoor baths with temperatures up to 60°C, the therapeutic waters still from the same springs as centuries ago. Set amongst clipped trees and with panoramic views. Inexpensive to use and there are changing rooms, sun-loungers and a bar. Accessible by road, excursion – or by a stirring walk.

Rome, obviously – there’s not a cruise that wouldn’t offer a day out to the home of the Sistine Chapel, Colosseum and Trevi Fountain. From port Civitavecchia to Rome, shuttles, buses or private taxis can take you to the Eternal City, ensuring plenty of time to explore.

However, while it’s easy enough to get a train, an early excursion, little more than an hour’s journey, can make better use of valuable time – and make sure you get back at the right time. Perhaps best to opt for a coach-only trip, which gives you the time to immerse yourself in the city as you wander the streets.

– READ MORE: I cruised Venice inside-out & avoided the crowds… – 

Where to eat and drink around Civitavecchia cruise port

La Lisca – cool and modern, at the southern end of the beach, with a magnificent terrace and views across Pirgo and beyond. Lots of seafood, from delicately fried fish to grilled octopus, as well as stylish pasta dishes. Great sunsets – and wonderful for an evening drink.

Ristorante MAA – just behind the fort and with terrace views past the ancient structure across the harbour to the giant cruise ships. It calls itself a Seafood & Lounge Bar, so great for a reasonably priced bowl of mussels but also perfect for a final Bellini and half a dozen oysters before departing. maaristorante.it

Prima Spiaggia Street Bar – on the main street facing the sea at the start of the beach, a swift stroll from the ships. Low key, modern and unfussy but with nice outdoor seating and much favoured by locals for espresso, cocktails and snacks.

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Where to stay around Civitavecchia port

Hotel Porto di Roma – Civitavecchia isn’t overburdened with upmarket hotels and this is simple yet smart, in a pretty cobbled street between cruise terminal and railway station. There’s a chargeable airport shuttle and a café/bar.

Hotel Mediterraneo – just off the beach a short walk from the cruise terminal. Stylish seaview rooms with balconies along with less impressive economy rooms.

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