My first cruise had a Nobu, butlers & a nightclub – this is what happened

Words by Lisa McGarry

Spending your inaugural cruise with Crystal is a bit like making your first handbag a Birkin – raising the bar from the get-go. My virgin voyage was to be the first half of the Crystal Symphony Lisbon-Dover itinerary: via Porto, Ferrol and Bordeaux. It was also my birthday while onboard, and I couldn’t imagine a better way to celebrate.

Excitement was running high when we arrived in Lisbon on the afternoon of departure to come aboard the impressively sleek Crystal Symphony, through a smooth and speedy embarkation process, before heading up the gangplank to check-in. The lobby – all curved grandeur with statue, water feature and pianist – showed the luxurious scale of the Crystal cruise ship, surround windows confirming that sea views are the best views.

What are Crystal Symphony cabins like?

Once in possession of a Crystal ID card, I headed to my beautiful suite where a bottle of champagne was waiting; as well as a tuxedoed butler, the lovely Fernando, who showed me around and encouraged me to call him any time should I have any issues or wants.

The suite was equipped with a roomy wardrobe space containing bags for dry cleaning, laundry and ironing, terrace with seating to gaze out and dream in privacy, bathroom with a shower big enough to dance in and full range of Ortigia products, living space with couch and dining table, two flat-screen TVs with a long list of movies on tap, well-stocked drinks fridge, access to 24-hour room service, and a ridiculously comfy bed, where I slept, starfish style, like the proverbial well-fed baby.

After our muster safety briefing, we went up to the top deck for castaway, drenched in the wellbeing only blue skies and champagne can bestow, before getting to know the Crystal Symphony ship. There’s a lot to get to know – with rooms for 606 guests, nine restaurants, 10 public spaces including bars, shops, a library, kids’ spaces, spa, gym, golf driving nets, and six entertainment venues, all shiny and new after a full 2023 refurbishment.

What happened to Crystal Cruises?

Crystal Cruises entered a new era when the line was acquired by A&K Travel Group in 2022 and rebranded as simply Crystal. The company recently announced plans for the build of two new state-of-the-art ships, set to launch in 2028. They’re on the up: and one of the things that repeatedly struck me during conversations with fellow cruisers was how many had been on multiple Crystal cruises, some so many that they seemed to know everyone. It’s not just the guests who are loyal – staff retention is high, and nothing was too much trouble for the smiley helpful people we encountered all over the ship.

– READ MORE: How to choose the best cruise ship cabin for you – 

What is food like on Crystal cruises?

Onboard dining is elevated to A game on Crystal Symphony, and every meal was more like art than fuel. There are too many special mentions to cover, but everyone gets excited about Umi Uma, the only Nobu dining concept at sea, delivering Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine by Master Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhiha, where I got to sample the famous black cod among many other highlights for a pre-birthday dinner I’ll never forget.

I loved the food at Osteria Ovidio, named for Crystal’s Executive Chairman Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio: featuring perfectly balanced Italian dishes, including a duck main which will live long in the memory, and the classic-with-a-twist vs. innovative modern menus at the Waterside. The Waterside is the ship’s main restaurant and was also where we spent the black-tie dinner – with caviar starter, lobster, and a dessert covered in puffed cotton candy which garnered plenty of “ooohs” on arrival.

I also love a buffet, and the breakfast spread at Marketplace restaurant with its floor-to-ceiling windows and chic outdoor seating (which serves the buffet for lunch and dinner, and is a perfect spot for casual dining) didn’t let me down – catering for all cultures and tastes, with chefs to cook up omelettes and stir-fries on demand. But if you don’t do breakfast, the Bistro and poolside Trident Grill are on hand with snacks and hot food throughout the day, and the Scoops ice cream bar opens at 12 with its authentic Italian gelato – with a selection of liqueurs alongside the toppings (the cookies were my favourite), just in case anyone fancies a hard shake.

– READ MORE: Sailawaze’s top destinations for food –

Crystal Symphony bars and drinks

Talking of alcohol, high-end spirits and champagne are included in the cost of your Crystal cruise, meaning discretion is the better part of valour if you don’t want to end up with a sore head. We went with the sommelier’s suggestions on wine, with the crispest whites and richest reds alongside our various meals. There was a bar with an entire menu dedicated to gin, and all the cocktails you could possibly require – both on and off menu. Palm Court and Crystal Cove are elegant bars for those pre-dinner drinks, and if you’re not one for boozing, there are some lovely mocktails – I got quite addicted to the Hibiscus Breeze, the perfect way to cool down on a sun lounger.

What’s it like onboard Crystal Symphony?

One of the things I loved about Crystal Symphony was that there was always plenty of room on the Seahorse pool deck to relax on sun beds and couches, and enjoy the views. The seawater pool and jacuzzi were never crowded, and as there were so many talks, activities and events going on around the ship each day, it meant everyone was spread out, and lots of guests seemed to like hanging out in their cabins – which I totally understood, given how luxuriously cosy mine was.

– READ MORE: We tried the newest all-inclusive luxury ship –

What to do on Crystal Symphony

One popular spot on the top deck was the pickleball court, aka my new favourite sport, and early morning jogs around the deck and access to fitness facilities mean it’s easy to keep overindulgence at bay. Golf fans had two golf pros giving workshops on how to get that perfect swing, as well as the golf driving nets.

I took part in jewellery-making and watercolour painting workshops, which were a great way to meet some of the other guests on board, who were lovely to a fault – dynamic, interesting, well-travelled and chatty. Another relaxed sport onboard is shopping – whether your budget is diamonds, Chanel, or something slightly less bougie – the boutiques had some fabulous cruise wear, and I bought myself a gold bracelet as a birthday present.

Crystal cruise entertainment

We caught a few of the evening shows, which brought sophisticated glitz, Broadway stars, some serious vocal gifts, and the kind of dance routines to make me wish I’d kept up Pilates. Avenue Saloon had a silky-voiced pianist crooning away to requests nightly – there was a lot of Sinatra and Billy Joel involved, and he wasn’t averse to assistance, especially from the pros. Palm Court had some early evening bands, the ideal accompaniment to those aperitifs.

Karaoke night was a winner at Jade nightclub, where we got to show off our pipes in front of the professional singers (which wasn’t embarrassing at all), followed by a DJ getting everyone on the dancefloor for a set that wouldn’t feel out of place in a London nightclub.

– READ MORE: How to keep fit on a cruise ship –

Crystal shore excursions

Porto – the ideal easy city break

Our first stop on our Crystal cruise was Porto, which I earmarked as a place to return to asap on a friend or couple trip, and there are some beautiful beaches not far from the city that I checked out during the journey.

The excursions included a Douro River cruise with port tasting, canal cruise, Old Town tours and private half-day excursions, but I opted to wander happily solo and see where I ended up. This turned out to be around cobbled streets lined with atmospheric buildings and colourful bunting, an Old Town lookout spot across the city and river, beautiful churches, the Harry Potter-famed bookshop Livraria Lello – over a century old and believed to have been used as inspo for several of the HP settings – marble statues, famous fountains, parks, museums, and the kind of busy but relaxing hubbub of a lively city on a lovely day.

Getting Ferrol like the pilgrims

Portugal turned into Spain, and while we lost an hour that night, I gained everything in terms of ticking off a bucket list item with minimal effort. I joined the excursion to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the culmination of the Camino de Santiago, a major pilgrimage route from the Middle Ages, and a vibey place full of groups of walkers who’d reached the jubilant end of their journey.

The cathedral’s ornate interior with its soaring altar and carved deities (including the famed statue of St. James which you can climb inside the altar to touch) makes you inevitably think of dear ones loved and lost, and even in the crowds, there’s such peace bound into the history and artistry of the cathedral, which was constructed in 1075 in Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles – in other words, a trifecta of wow.

We wandered around the World Heritage site of the Old Town of Santiago de Compostela afterwards, for more sights and a spot of shopping – it’s a very special place. Just a week later and we’d have caught the Feast of St. James festival (Día de Santiago) on July 25, which features parades, concerts, and traditional dances.

– READ MORE: 5 things you never knew about Portugal –

Inside the Crystal Symphony spa

The Bay of Biscay crossing was at times a little wobbly, but I’ve got good sea legs and enjoyed the rolling motion, as well as spotting dolphins leaping through nearby waves. The sea day meant a chance to get up to the Serenity Spa, where I was booked in for an anti-ageing facial, which left me feeling like I was glowing on the inside as well as out. I love everything about spas – the smell, the sense of deep relaxation, the fluffy robes, and of course all the products, in this case from the Elemis range. This was also where to find the sauna and hammam, should those muscles need a soak after all the walking (and strenuous eating).

I woke up early on the morning of my birthday to see we were cruising down the Garonne River in the serene morning light, just passing under high bridges without impact (I’m sure they checked first). It was the perfect chance to hop in the jacuzzi, which I timed to coincide with the Symphony passing under another bridge – a surreal and beautiful experience. We took breakfast out on the deck, as we cruised right into the heart of the city, seeing from the beautiful historic buildings lining the city promenade exactly why Bordeaux is a World Heritage site.

Again, I’d not booked a tour, happy to discover the city in a small group, starting with the most beautifully planted public park I’ve ever seen, before stopping for lunch at chic Mets Mots, where two fine dining courses cost less than £20. We wandered a couple of the big shopping streets, picking up a few bargains in the summer sales and enjoying the relaxed feel of summer Bordeaux, where everyone seemed to be smiling as they ambled along.

Lots of guests had gone on winery tours, and the feedback on these was great – from the wines to the stunning wineries themselves. Next time…

All great cruises must come to an end

I left Crystal Symphony somewhat bereft, but with a bank of incredible memories from my first cruise. It’s clear that Crystal cruises know just how to make their guests feel pampered, wonderful, and extremely well-fed, and their staff go that extra mile to make it a special experience. I can’t wait to test those sea legs out again!

– READ MORE: 7 top Spain & France ports on the Atlantic Coast –