I sailed on the world’s first climate-neutral coastal cruise

The cruise industry comes in many different shapes and sizes. Whilst 5,000 passenger floating fun parks in the Caribbean is some folks’ idea of fun, there is an altogether different alternative on offer on the coastal route of Norway.

Here boutique line Havila Voyages operates four ships, from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes in the far north — the route of one of the most sustainable cruise operations in the world.

It’s business as well as pleasure: Havila has also been operating since 2021 as a critical infrastructure supplier by transporting goods and passengers to the communities along the route (its better-known competitor, Hurtigruten, has been running this ‘mail boat’ course for over a hundred years.)

Onboard, you’ll get locals hopping from port to port using the service much like a ferry alongside cruise guests, many of whom are onboard for the full 12-day itinerary to Kirkenes in the far north near the Russian border and back to Bergen.

Me? I joined the brand for the first-ever voyage to run on biogas and batteries…

Havila’s sustainable voyage

Our journey (in late November 2025) was a special moment in the already impressive sustainability journey of Havila. All four ships in the fleet are hybrid, using Liquid Natural Gas (LNG) supported by batteries (the equivalent of 124 Tesla cars!) powered with clean hydropower energy. This world-leading design enables them to sail for up to four hours, silently and with zero emissions.

When not using battery power, during normal operations, the ships are powered by LNG, cutting CO2 emissions by over 38 percent to 13 percent more than their target.

But Havila is not stopping there. This particular voyage saw the ship additionally powered by carbon-neutral BioGas produced from waste found along the Norwegian coastline. Namely, cattle and fish poo (of which there is a lot in these parts!). Excitingly, Havila is working on a Biogas supply chain all the way along the route, which will be complete by 2028.

– READ MORE: Bergen cruise port guide –

What’s it like on board a Havila cruise ship?

Our ship was the Havila Polaris but the others are much the same spec. There are 250 cruise guests in 115 cabins. Our standard double at 15sqm was of ample size for the limited time we ended up spending in it. Much like a typical hotel room, the cabin is well-appointed with USBs by the bed and a Nespresso coffee machine. There are inside cabins for those searching even better value. For those with a bigger budget and wanting more space, the suites are well worth considering. You even get your own jacuzzi in two of them.

What really grabs you about the Polaris is the spacious communal areas on Decks 5-8. The finish is classic Scandinavian: minimal, modern, tasteful. I never had any trouble finding a place to relax, read and tackle emails. As I was cruising in late November, there were going to be long periods of darkness, so having a comfortable area to sit was crucial. For the hours of light (about 11am-3pm), it was cold outside. So, sitting behind the huge picture windows, appreciating the stunning landscape was a joy. The Wi-Fi on board was excellent, meaning the winter itinerary is a great way to catch up on work or sit down and write that first novel, perhaps!

Of course, you do go outside. Both on the ship as she cruises into small ports, as well as off the ship for the daily excursions. We were outside in the dark at 7am as we crossed the Arctic Circle itself. A fun moment with the ship’s spotlight searching out the monument on a small island and giving a large blast of the horn. For those who had never crossed the Circle before, there was an initiation ceremony on deck later in the day, with the Nordic God Njord (a crew member in costume) pouring freezing water down your back and something strong down your throat.

Outside of a few of these special events, there really is not much in the way of entertainment on Havila – no West End shows or magicians here. Instead you’ll get daily briefings about the upcoming ports and excursions.

– READ MORE: Top 10 polar expedition cruises for 2026 –

What route does a Havila Norwegian coastal voyage take?

Typically, guests join at Bergen and go all the way to Kirkenes near the Russian border. Most return to Bergen on the reverse route, although it is possible to fly back to Oslo from Kirkenes. Whilst there are more than 30 ‘stops’ on the voyage North, you get off only once a day. These are in the main hubs of Alesund, Tronheim, Bodo, Tromso, Honningsvag (the gateway to North Cape) and Kirkenes.

– READ MORE: Top Arctic Norway destinations for summer –

What excursions are offered on a Havila ship?

The excursions are a real highlight for guests and help support the local economy  — 100 percent of off-ship activities are organised by local suppliers, and I could tell how important my visit was to their livelihood when I chatted to some of them.

There are all manner of city tours, kayaking adventures and snow-related activities. We joined a visit to a local Sami reindeer camp. Being pulled along on a reindeer sledge and feeding the animals was more fun and less touristy than it might sound, while our first sighting of the Northern Lights raised the excitement significantly. It was not to be the last sighting, either!

There was an excellent coastal walking tour in Bodø. A two-hour, easy hike along the coast, learning about the local wildlife and the Viking history. We were thankful for our headtorches at 3pm as we approached the end of the hike in the dark. Such excursions are a nice way to meet fellow cruise guests, too. I had a long chat with a gentleman who had come all the way from New Zealand, quite a journey from the bottom of the world to the top.

In the far north town of Honningsvag, we did an ATV 4-wheeler excursion. The meeting point was a short icy walk from the ship dock. Once the mandatory safety briefing was complete, we were kitted out with extra warm suits, helmets and gloves and we were off on a two-hour adventure. The driving was easy and the ATV was a comfortable ride for two people, complete with amazing views and a terrain that was foreboding but eerily beautiful. Freezing but exhilarated, we returned in the pitch dark at 3pm, eager to get onboard the Polaris for afternoon tea.

We also enjoyed a self-guided visit to the 1000-year-old Gothic Cathedral in Trondheim. The Nidaros Cathedral is dedicated to St Olav, Norway’s patron saint, and is the traditional site of Norwegian royal coronations. Don’t miss the spectacular organ — it’s one of the largest in Europe.

– READ MORE: Inside Susan Calman’s unexpected Norway cruise –

What is the food like on a Havila ship?

On a regular cruise fare, three meals a day are included in the Havrand dining room, complete with large windows on both sides and to the stern. Whilst it is often busy, you will always find a table with a view.

One of the commendable initiatives from Havila is to reduce food waste, something which blights the wider cruise industry. Their stated goal is less than 75 grams per person per day (a 90 percent reduction on what some larger cruise lines report). For both breakfast and lunch, you order from a menu but all the items are served on small dishes. The suggestion is to order three but you are more than welcome to order more.  I appreciated the concept; I unconsciously ate less and wasted less.

There is an additional buffet for breakfast. Not the vast spread you see on a large ocean cruise line, but a considered selection of local fish, cold cuts, cheeses and yoghurts. I particularly enjoyed the daily ginger shot and smoothies.

A three-course, more traditional Dinner is also served in the Havrand, with typically six starters and six mains on offer. Starters include Norwegian Seafood soup, local cured fish and seasonal vegetable salads. Mains will offer pan-seared fish, a lamb or beef dish and always a vegetarian option.

The deserts are worth leaving space for, with lots of Scandinavian sweets and berries. Top tip: be cautious with your alcohol purchases… this is Norway and it is invariably expensive. An entry-priced bottle of wine will cost £60 while speciality wines will be two or three times that price. A good excuse to abstain, perhaps.

Three meals a day in the same dining room gets a little repetitive, so it is worth treating yourself to a change of scene in the speciality dining room, Hildring Restaurant — an intimate room seating around 20 people.

Depending on your voyage, there are three themed evenings: fish night, meat night and king crab night, all at an extra cost (£30 per person for the fish and meat nights). In my view, this is well worth it. (The King Crab night is much more expensive at £140 per person, but I did not experience this, so I can’t comment on its value for money).

The meat night was a six-course menu. We started with Tartar of Norwegian Beef tenderloin, followed by a choice of Lamb, duck or Reindeer and finished with a delicious chocolate terrine — all washed down with a bottle of excellent Chateau Moulin de Bel Air (£60). The food was excellent, service impeccable and the ambience delightful. We even had a front row seat as the ship docked in a tiny port to deliver some cargo in the pitch dark and ice of nighttime. Just a fitting Havila experience.

– READ MORE: An adventurer’s guide to Tromsø cruise port –

Can you see the Northern Lights onboard a Havila ship?

Whilst of course there is no guarantee, this is the main reason folks travel to the far north in the winter season. If you take the full 12-day return trip, you have a pretty good chance. We, in fact, had two encounters over our six-day trip. Once on land and the second onboard.

Havila has a Northern Lights alarm set up in each cabin; a good system that means you can go to bed without worrying about missing the action. Set this and you’ll be awoken at any time the lights appear. Sure enough, on night five, we were summoned to the top deck to see a spectacular light display. It was freezing cold, so you could only stand 10-15 minutes outside to get your photos. But it is worth it.

As is the entire holiday. This trip proves a real pinch-me, bucket list experience. The ship is modern and comfortable, the food is excellent, the excursions are interesting and the scenery is nothing short of breathtaking. I’ll be back for the summer itinerary.