Why cruising the Rhine with a beer sommelier changed how I think about beer

I’m sure you’ve heard of wine-tasting tours, wine sommeliers, and even river cruises with stops at various vineyards along the way – but how about switching wine for beer? Now, that’s more interesting.

I joined Riverside Luxury Cruises for their new Hops & Heritage beer discovery tour: an exciting itinerary starting in Basel and ending in Amsterdam. It brings together the best of European cities with the best of their beers, all delivered in a luxurious and sophisticated manner onboard the river ship Riverside Debussy.

If that wasn’t enough, passengers are accompanied by renowned beer sommelier, James Kellow – an amiable Brit who traded living in the UK for Amsterdam back in 2020. Kellow has a wealth of knowledge about the history and traditions of beer and marries the old (and there are some very old beer stories in these parts) with the new expertly.

Helpfully, as we found out, he also knew all the best places to grab a beer along the route…

Shore excursions on the Hops and Heritage Tour

Shortly after we embarked in Amsterdam, we were off on our first excursion, a walking tour of the city’s best beer offerings. Kellow, the beer sommelier, and Riverside had arranged private tastings at five stops – a VIP experience we were going to become accustomed to throughout our trip. The first was a hybrid of a bar and a shop: De Bierkoning (no translation required). After a sip of Zeebonk and then Juicy by Nature, we were off to our next stop, Café Gollem.

My favourite watering hole was ‘In de Wildeman’– a real beer connoisseur’s joint. We took a seat at the back and were presented with a spread of cold cuts, cheese and other local delicacies. Sure, I was on my fourth beer at only 3pm, but thanks to all the sipping and learning, it didn’t feel like your usual messy pub crawl.

After a peaceful evening onboard, we arrived at our first port of call: the delightful, small town of Enkhuizen. The picture-postcard port town deserves a visit, no matter your tourist purpose, but we were here to taste beer and to shatter the illusion that this is only a ‘manly’ pastime.

Kellow had arranged a sunny table right next to the canal at the Schpperscafe t’Ankertje – the home of Karin, the BrouwVrouw (the brew lady), a force of nature and a wonderful host. She presented us with a flight of six delicious beers (some of which were 10 percent + ABV), all brewed by herself. Thankfully, the beers were accompanied by a booze-soaking feast of cold cuts, fish balls, cheeses and sandwiches. I can see why the Crown Prince of Holland used to be a regular in his youth.

Next stop, Wesel. This is one for the World War II history enthusiasts. The Rhine crossing at Wesel was of strategic importance during the war – Churchill met with General Eisenhower and Field Marshall Montgomery here. Sadly, because of the city’s position, over 95 percent of Wesel was destroyed during the war, and it shows. I loved the cathedral with its modern organ, while many of our group took the opportunity here to go for a run or a bike ride along the river (Riverside provides excellent ebikes free of charge).

The third and final stop was Düsseldorf for an ‘Altbier Safari’, which involved hopping between five Old Town breweries and beer halls. Altbier comes in just one style – there’s no choice – and is served in small 200ml glasses. It’s a beer you’ll find almost exclusively in Düsseldorf, tied to the city’s famously traditional breweries.

Even at 11am things were getting busy, but of course, Kellow had secured a private table for us, even at the famous Schumacher brewhouse. This was a highly enjoyable excursion and I admit we carried on well after the official element of the tour was completed…

– READ MORE: What to pack for a river cruise –

What is it like onboard Riverside Debussy?

Riverside cabins

Riverside Luxury Cruises has three ships that cruise all the great rivers of Europe, as well as a less well-known route along the Saone in Eastern France. We were sailing on the Debussy, a 50-suite craft that embodies quiet sophistication.

The cabins are roomy at 20sqm with floor-to-ceiling windows; there’s ample wardrobe space, a nice desk and the bed is the stuff of dreams – literally, and there are twin sinks in the product-packed bathroom plus a powerful shower. It’s so swishly cosy I found myself popping back here every afternoon for a lie down!

It’s not your average nap, though; floating at water level means yachts and barges glide right past your feet. It’s even possible to slide the window down and have a complete indoor/outdoor experience.

Riverside activities

As comfortable as the suites are, you will want to spend time in the communal areas of the ship. It is a surprisingly spacious craft, and the staff are impeccable with their discreet but efficient service.

I also enjoyed the morning yoga classes – a supremely relaxing way to start the day as you stretch out whilst enjoying the passing scenery. There’s also an indoor swimming pool at the stern of the ship, which is a great feature; it’s small but never too busy.

The top deck is expansive – expect an outdoor TV screen, sofas, loungers and a bar – and was a popular spot with our group for a game of cards and a gin and tonic.

Riverside food

Food is a big deal on all Riverside itineraries (they even won a Sailawaze Excellence Award in 2025 for Food) and they truly excel from breakfast to dinner. The Waterside Restaurant is the main dining area. It’s all velvet armchairs and marble tops, with buffet options for breakfast and lunch, before transforming into a Michelin-star-level eatery in the evenings.

One evening, we had a barbecue on the top Scenic Vista deck. This was a real treat and is a part of all Riverside itineraries, weather permitting.

– READ MORE: A first-timer’s guide to river cruising –

Beer and fine dining combine on Riverside Debussy

Whilst the food throughout Riverside Debussy is marvellous, there is a special treat hidden behind closed doors: The Vintage Room, a private dining experience with just 10 covers. Luckily enough to try it ourselves, our exclusive soiree was a haute cuisine and beer pairing – which, by this point of the trip, didn’t feel incongruous at all.

The menu ranged from tuna foie gras, through beef cheek, lobster, venison and finished with a melt-in-your-mouth blue cheese profiterole. At each stage, Kellow presented a beer and a story of providence. We knocked back Wit Beer, Barley Wine, Tripel-Weizen, Cherry Lambic and my favourite, the Moeursleutel Belgian Quad beer (at 12 percent this one needs to be nurtured).

The following evening, Kellow and the Riverside Chefs were at it again. This time, we were served a Beer and Cheese Pairing in the Vintage Room: six cheeses, six beers. The cheeses came from France, Belgium, Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. Standout was the Bavarian Blue cheese, paired with St Sixtus Abbey, a Trappist Quadrupel beer that is produced only in the volumes the monks require to sustain themselves. Apparently, the St Sixtus is ‘one of the most fetishised beers in the world’, and one of the hardest to get your hands on, so this is the moment when a Beer Sommelier really comes in useful.

My advice? Gather a group of friends and book the superb summer 2026 itinerary – this is exactly the kind of experience best shared and slowly savoured.

– READ MORE: Top 10 food destinations for a river cruise in Europe –

James Kellow and Riverside Luxury Cruises will be at Sailawaze Live on 21-22 March 2026. Allianz Stadium, Twickenham. Tickets available for purchase here.